Master FAQ

This is a collection of all the frequently asked questions located at the end of each page.

 
  • Online: Perler, Artkal, BeadTin, FuseBeadStore, Amazon.com

    Local US stores or online: Hobby Lobby, Michaels, Joann’s Fabrics

  • Ornaments, picture frames, canvas, magnets, keychains, jewelry, 3D Projects, coasters, sell or gift them

  • It’s widely accepted that E6000 glue is the best glue for fuse bead projects. This has also been my experience. E6000 is a carcinogen, so be sure to use this glue in a well ventilated space and do not let it on your skin.

    Gorilla glue spray is good for mounting projects on canvas.

    Hot glue is most commonly used in 3D projects. Be sure to test your hot glue temperature on a piece you are not particularly attached to.

    Do not use super glue, gel or liquid, as it can seep through the holes in your finished product and will leave an unpleasant ashen residue on the front side.

  • Truly… any! These are the magnets I use. Be aware that the magnets that come with an adhesive backing do pop off over time and its best to secure them with E6000 glue.

  • Sure can! You can glue it to a canvas and hang it on the wall, use push pin tacks, removable whitetack, or even narrow finishing nails.

    Having some trouble getting your project to stick? Try superglueing a popsicle stick to the back of your project.

  • Yes. Double-sided adhesive sheets can be used on designs you want to keep but not melt. You can find a video on how to use adhesive sheets here.

  • Surprisingly… maybe. No brand has come out and said their beads go bad over time but I’ve heard many people claim their beads from last year melted poorly and had more ‘blowouts’. If you’re unsure just test them! (more on blowouts here)

  • If you are first getting into the craft, I recommend getting 1 set of the 4 regular interlocking square boards or 1 super board. I was able to craft on just the small boards for about 3 months before I grew confident enough to make larger projects. The goal is to not overspend! Buy as needed.

  • I’ve heard of people having success with packing tape but I will not personally recommend it. If thats all you have in the moment, you better test it before trying it on any project you care about.

  • Yes! Perler makes their own ironing paper.

    Teflon ironing sheets are another alternative. Typically you can iron about 3-4 large projects before it builds up a dark gunk but they will last even longer if they are cleaned between uses.

  • This happened because of too much heat. Next time, lower your iron temperature and be sure to remove your tape after 10-15 min.

    You can try using Goo Gone to wipe away any tape you can’t pick off.

  • Did you accidentally use wax paper? –No? ok we can move on..

    Not all brands of parchment are made equal. Cheap brands tend to cause this problem. Invest in name-brand parchment.

    Already using name-brand? You might be reusing the same piece of parchment for too long. You should be using a new strip every 3 to 5 projects. You could also be using too high of a temperature on your iron.

  • Bead pens are a luxury – though some say it’s a luxury worth skipping. The top complaint is that it jams frequently, and not worth the hassle. But some swear by it and all it takes is patience to learn the best way to hold it to prevent jamming.

  • 300° to 350°. The lower the temp the longer you will have to iron. Most people prefer 325°. Do not exceed 350°.

  • I’m going to be honest, I’ve never attempted wax paper but I’ve heard it’s hard to remove. Though, I have seen artists use wax paper because beads will stick to the wax side after ironing and the design can be lifted away from the pegboard - as seen in this tutorial. If you don’t have a specific need for wax paper - don’t use it.

  • Projects that use multiple boards can sometimes shift around too much or possibly don’t lay perfectly flat, not allowing the beads to line up well - try securing the beads using the tape method.

    For XL projects iron them in sections and lay books on top as you move to prevent curling.

  • Wool or cotton

  • You can try reheating the board and flattening it. Start by wetting a hand towel and wringing out the excess water. Lay your pegboard down on a heat-resistant surface, pegs down. Lay your wet hand towel over the board and use your iron to heat the board through the towel. Iron it lightly for about 15 seconds. Remove the towel and replace it with a heavy book or something similar. Leave the board this way until it cools completely.

    Some people have success, some do not. Best of luck!

  • When using the tape method, the tape can trap hot air when melting and cause bead ‘blowouts’. Blowouts are when a hot air has nowhere to escape causing the hole in the center to expand and not fuse closed properly.

  • Poke tiny holes in the tape through the center of each bead to allow air hot to escape. This is pretty time consuming but worth it for that perfect melt.

    Allow the air to escape by lifting the parchment paper periodically while ironing.

    Use a lower heat setting.

  • No, but encouraged. You’re much more likely to get blowouts but it’s up to you on what risks you’re willing to take. More on the tape method here.